i loooove putting together thanksgiving dinner, for some reason i’m not quite as attached to making the other holiday meals in their entirety. but thanksgiving?! i just love it. i think it has something to do with the fact that most holidays have other components, but thanksgiving is pretty much alllll about the food. aside from the macy’s day parade and maybe a turkey trot, the meal basically IS the holiday. it also probably has a little something to do with my specific love of making food the way my family always has, and being able to combine those traditions with the recipes i’ve found for my best holiday each year.
below are a few things i’ve learned to keep in mind/do each year when preparing dinner:
1) when selecting recipes i take several things into consideration:
a) cohesion. i like certain flavors, ingredients or elements to be reflected in multiple dishes, it makes the meal feel less like a scattered potluck. this year’s flavors are sage, brown butter, apples, cranberries, orange and bourbon. (and butter with a capital B. but i don’t think that counts.)
b) balance. if my menu is looking heavy on cream or cheese i’ll try to incorporate something fresher, like this year’s blistered green beans in lieu of a creamy green bean casserole. i also look to balance color - i try to ensure a plate with a little scoop of every dish is visually appealing. (i can’t help it, we eat with our eyes first.)
and c) logistics. i consider recipes based on what i can make ahead, bake in an oven at the same temperature, reheat and accommodate in our smaller kitchen. which brings me to…
2) my timeline. each year i create a timeline, which starts a few weeks out but the most important part is the day of cooking schedule. i know it sounds completely ocd, but this helps me lay out exactly what will happen and when. there’s no guesswork and no stress, and i can troubleshoot a lot of problems before they occur. i also pull together a master shopping list to ensure nothing gets missed at the store.
3) i don't like to put too much effort into t-giving apps. i don't want anyone filling up before the main event + dessert, and time/oven space is usually scarce. i usually do what my mom used to do - just assemble a little charcuterie platter of cold pickles, olives, nuts, fruit, crackers and cheese. that, and cocktail will usually tide over any starving guests until mealtime. this year the guys are headed off to work shortly after dinner so i don’t think i’ll even mess around with appetizer hour, we’ll just dive straight into the real deal.
4) this year i came across this article and turkey recipe from the new york times. i love the first line; “For all the attention we lavish on Thanksgiving turkeys, the truth is more work does not necessarily yield a better bird.” it’s so true. each year i tend to get all amped about the turkey, convinced that the more things i do to it, the better result it will yield. in reality turkey just isn’t that hard, despite all the drama and cautionary tales surrounding it each year. there are just a few easy steps i’ve learned to take that guarantee a moist, yummy bird:
// defrost if needed starting a few days in advance. frozen turkeys can take up to 4 days to fully thaw, so don’t wait!
// do a wet or dry brine. this year i’m actually using a pre-brined bird from trader joe’s. fingers crossed that works out, because wet brining is awesome, but messy and challenging in my little fridge.
// let the turkey air dry in the fridge overnight, this will result in crispier skin. (if wet brining, do so they day prior then take the bird out of it’s bath, pat dry with paper towels and let sit in the roasting pan overnight inside the refrigerator.)
// set the turkey out for an hour or two before baking to let the bird come to room temperature. this ensures quicker and more even roasting.
// make stuffing outside the turkey - stuffing inside the bird is tough to cook fully without overdoing your white meat, the bread in stuffing sucks moisture out of your turkey meat while cooking (the exact opposite of what we want), and turkey stuffing is usually kind of mushy. it’s a better bet to stuff the interior cavity with a combo of butter and aromatics such as onions, apples, pears, celery, herbs, citrus and of course a little salt and pepper for added flavor.
// herb butter! i rub down my turkeys with an herb butter, which gives it awesome flavor and keeps the meat moist while cooking. i’ll baste the turkey a bit, but prefer to go so far as to remove the turkey from the oven a couple times during cooking to add more butter as well. i know some people have grievances about letting heat out of the oven/extending the turkey’s cook time by doing so, but i’ve never yet had dry meat so i can make peace with that.
// cook temp: some recipes have you start at 400 or 450 and decrease after half an hour or so, which is fine. but try to avoid cooking your bird at 400 for the entirety of the time. a higher temp results in firmer meat, whereas meat cooked lower at 325 or 350 will have a more tender texture. (if you’re curious, test it out by roasting a whole chicken at different temps.)
// i’ve learned through my own trial and error that trussing the legs of the turkey results in a pretty bird, but causes the breast and legs to cook unevenly. the inner thigh area of the turkey is always a little too pink when the breast meat is complete so i skip this step. we usually rest and carve the bird without presenting it so no one even misses the trussed presentation.
// be mindful of over-salting a brined or pre-brined bird. it’s possible to be little too heavy handed. [guilty.] also take care not to over-brine your turkey. there’s a point at which you start pickling the thing.
5) table presentation: almost as important as devising and executing a menu, i love decorating our house, choosing dishes and napkins, and setting the table with a centerpiece. that includes extra herbs, greenery and fruits to set around the turkey meat once it’s carved and plated.
6) in addition to the shopping list of food below, i try not to forget extras like a brining bag (if using), baster, meat thermometer, batteries for said thermometer, beverages, to go containers, foil, cling wrap, etc. i also budget a little bit more when planning food quantities for to-go plates and leftovers.
7) don’t forget breakfast! i’ll whip up some granola to top with yogurt as an easy option the morning of, cinnamon rolls, pumpkin pancakes, or make-aheads like pumpkin bread or cranberry orange muffins to freeze ahead of time. (i made a batch this weekend to freeze and eat pretty much until christmas.)
thanksgiving 2018 menu/recipe round up (basically, half baked harvest saves the day)
herb butter turkey with make-ahead white wine gravy
stuffing - contributed
creamy herb butter mashed potatoes - make-ahead
blistered green beans with toasted hazelnuts (modified)
parker house rolls - make-ahead
// cinnamon honey butter - make-ahead
// regular butter
orange amaretto cranberry sauce - make-ahead, refrigerate
caramel apple pie - make-ahead, refrigerate (modified)
cherry bourbon pie - make-ahead, refrigerate (modified - non gluten free)
cheesecake, modified with gingersnap/speculoos crust topped with caramel or sugared cranberries- make-ahead, refrigerate
fresh whipped cream, refrigerate
shopping list
turkey
baster
turkey (this year’s is pre-brined so we’re skipping the brine step, but usually a brining bag too)
6 sprigs fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
6 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped
6 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
¾ cup (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temp
1 large onion, skin on, quartered
3 garlic cloves, skin on, smashed
2 tablespoons evoo
white wine gravy - make ahead base, finish with drippings
6 tablespoons salted butter
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups low-sodium chicken or turkey broth
kosher salt and black pepper
1 cup white wine
mashed potatoes - make ahead
5 pounds yukon gold or russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
kosher salt
1 cup whole milk or heavy cream
1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) salted butter, at room temperature
8 leaves fresh sage, 6 whole leaves + 1 tbsp chopped)
3 sprigs fresh thyme
3/4 cup crème fraîche
fresh black pepper
chopped fresh chives, for serving
for reheating: additional ½ cup heavy cream and 2 tablespoons butter
blistered green beans
2 pounds green beans, trimmed
2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup chopped hazelnuts
1/2 lemon
salt + pepper
parker house rolls
3 cups flour
2 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
3 tablespoons sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup potato flour
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk
1 large egg
3 1/2 tablespoons to 4 butter, melted; for brushing on rolls
cinnamon honey butter
1 cup butter
1 cup honey
1 cup powdered sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
cranberry sauce - make ahead
1 1/2 pounds fresh cranberries
1 1/2 cups sugar
2/3 cup fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons amaretto
2 tablespoons grated orange zest
1/4 cup water
caramel apple pie - make ahead
2 1/2 cups flour
salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter
apple cider vinegar
ice water
2 lb. granny smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into slices 1/4 inch thick
2 lb. honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored and cut into slices 1/4 inch thick
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
4 tsp. cornstarch
1 tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 tbs. cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 egg white, beaten with 1 tsp. water
2 tsp sugar
cherry bourbon pie - make ahead
2 1/2 cups flour
salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter
apple cider vinegar
ice water
6 cups/2 1/2 pounds pitted cherries (frozen)
3⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄4 cup cornstarch
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground cayenne
1⁄8 tsp fine sea salt
3 tablespoons bourbon
1 tbsp milk or cream
1 tbsp smoked sugar or coarse sugar (demerara or turbinado)
cheesecake - make ahead
1 1/2 cups speculoos/gingersnap cookies
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup unsalted butter or margarine, melted
4 (8 oz.) packages cream cheese, softened
1 1/4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
5 large eggs
1 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons sugar
whipped cream
heavy cream
powdered sugar
vanilla extract
coffee (decaf option as well)
coffee cream
vanilla ice cream
serve with extra gingersnap cookies
prep schedule
two weeks prior
decorate for fall
plan menu/research recipes
week prior
buy turkey
clean out pantry and fridge
plan table settings/centerpieces
locate tablecloths and napkins and launder
make pie crusts and freeze
three days prior
thaw turkey (if needed)
wash serving dishes and glasses
sharpen knives
iron tablecloths/napkins
complete grocery shopping
two days prior
put pie crusts and pumpkin puree (if using) in the fridge to thaw
wash serving utensils, dishes and make flatware settings, label which dish is going in each serving piece
make cranberry sauce
make the gravy base
make compound butters
day prior
make and bake pies, place in fridge overnight to chill
make mashed potatoes
make cheesecake
clean house
make rolls
let turkey air dry overnight in fridge
day of
9:00am
take turkey out of fridge one hour prior to roasting, stuff with aromatics and slather with herbed butter
set table
10:00am
turkey into the oven (do not truss)
bake at 325 degrees (low and slow)
bake 15 minutes per pound, at 16.86 pounds (round up - 17 pounds, 255 minutes or 4.25 hours.)
12:00pm
put potatoes in the slow cooker to reheat
take butters out of the fridge to come to room temp
toast hazelnuts for green beans and set aside
2:15-2:30pm
take turkey out of oven and add middle rack back into oven
turkey rests for 30 minutes, tented in foil
turn potatoes up to low/high
while turkey is resting - oven at 300 degrees
warm rolls in microwave/place in oven
place stuffing in oven to keep warm (if needed)
sautee green beans and add the hazelnuts, place in oven if needed to keep warm
heat gravy with drippings
3:00pm
while j carves turkey:
take cranberry sauce out of the fridge
plate potatoes
plate green beans
gravy into a boat
add rolls to basket
dinner at 3:15pm-3:30pm
just before serving dessert:
brew coffee
make whipped cream for apple pie
some notes for next year:
the tj’s pre-brined bird wasn’t bad, but it also wasn’t amazing. i seem to get better flavor and juicier turkey by brining myself, and i was hesitant to use too much salt when seasoning since i wasn’t sure how much the bird had already been treated with. i have a second turkey in the freezer, now that i know what i’m working with i think i’ll see if i can doll it up a bit for the second take.
i also think i would skip the half hour at 425 degrees at the start of the bake time. that was something new i tried this year and the meat was a little firmer than i’d like.
i made a test batch of parker house rolls that were awesome, but then on thanksgiving my second batch wasn’t quite as good. my focus was elsewhere during the process, prepping desserts and other dishes and they suffered a little as a result. i think next year i’ll go back to my old standby of purchasing rolls, and making some nice compound butter to slather on them.